“I jamun diima?” This
question was yelled out to me by nearly every person I have passed during my
first few days in site. It means “What
is your sweet last name” in Malinke. We
are asked this because knowing a person’s last name is essential in order to
properly greet that person. Now, they
call out my last name, “Tigana, Tigana, Tigana!” The correct response is to say the person’s
last name in return before starting the rest of the greeting process (and
repeatedly throughout the greeting), which is tricky since there are 6000
people in my town, all of whom remember our last names and expect us to remember
all of theirs. There is a significantly
smaller variety of last names in Senegal than in the states, and I’m trying to
decide whether this makes it easier or harder to remember. It seems as though about half of the
population is either Cissokho or Danfakha (or Sakhiliba or Damba, respectively,
which are the unofficial female versions of these surnames), so one of those
names can sometimes be a safe guess if someone has told me his or her last name
repeatedly and I’m expected to know it.
If someone does not know my name but knows who my host family is, they
will often shout out Sakhiliba, since our host family is a Cissokho family, so
I am presumed to be a child of the family.
Senegalese women do not take their husbands last names (although I wish
they did just so that I could memorize the last names of entire households
instead of individual people), but all the kids take the father’s last
name. Actually, my first day of
volunteer visit, I was named Sadio Sakhiliba because I was a child of the
Cissokho family, but then they thought that was weird since Pat and I were
married, so they changed my last name to Tigana.
When people learn that my name is Sadio Tigana, they know,
or assume to know, a lot more about me than just my name. They correctly assumed that I am named after
the real Sadio Tigana and understand the special relationship that I have with
her as my toxoma, or my namesake. I am
just starting to understand the depth of the toxoma relationship and am looking
forward to appreciating it more as my time in site continues. Sadio lights up every time she sees me and
chants, “Ntoxoma, ntoxoma, ntoxoma.” She
takes special care of me and takes pride in me, particularly if I do something
that she considers to be a Malinke thing to do, such as dance crazy at a
wedding, wear Senegalese clothing, help cook food, or successfully express
myself in her language. As I have
assumed Sadio’s name, I am also presumed to assume all of her
relationships. For example, her daughter
Diunkunda, simply addresses me as “nnaa”, or “my mother”, and her grandkids
call me grandma. I guess it’s kind of
helpful in figuring out who is who, since everyone in the extended family lives
together in the family compound.
Sadio is married to Ibrahima Cissokho, so people think it is hilarious when they learn
that I am married to Pat, whose Senegalese name is Iburahima Cissokho. The community thinks it’s really funny to
have two sets of Sadios and Ibrahima, the originals and the mini, toubab Sadio
and Iburahima. I’ve actually heard
myself referred to in the family compound as “Sadio wulema”. This translates to “red Sadio” (as opposed to
black Sadio), which is an interesting juxtaposition to Western designations of
skin color.
Being married to a Cissokho also means that men with the
last name of Cissokho tell me that they are my husband, which I’m not sure how
to react to. It’s all just part of the
Senegalese humor that goes along with names.
I mentioned in one of my first posts how different ethnic groups are
joking cousins, but there are joking cousin relationships between different
last names. Tigana has this relationship
with several last names, which is why it was completely appropriate for me to
tell the chief that he is a big bean eater when I greeted him
yesterday, since he is a Danfakha after all.
The Tures and the Cissokhos are joking cousins, so it is not uncommon
for Pat to be told by a Ture that he is no good. I’m still trying to learn the correct
responses to these jokes—at this point I mostly just turn it around and say the
same thing back, “No, you eat all the
beans”. The past few days, a group of old men has
repeatedly told me that my toxoma is pregnant (she is at least sixty). When I asked her about this, she explained it
was a joking cousin thing, and the best response was to tell the ringleader
that his first wife was pregnant. I did
this, and they about died laughing.
Different senses of humor I guess.
People also have been asking me if I farm peanuts. Maybe this has to do with the resemblance of
the Malinke word for peanut (tigo) and the name Tigana, or maybe it’s just
because rainy season (aka peanut farming season) is just around the
corner.
The caste system in Senegal , which is something I still
don’t really understand, corresponds to occupation and last name. The Tiganas are traditionally metal workers,
so people often make jokes about my metal working skills. One cast is called the “griots”, who are the
story tellers. A griot offered
to tell me the story of the Tiganas for a little money, but I think I’ll wait
until my language skills are improved to the point where I can appreciate it. For
now, my toxoma is pleased enough that I have learned to say “Tigana Marena”. Marena is the extension of the last name
Tigana that the griots use when talking about the Tiganas. Each last name has its own special griot
addition, and so far I’ve only learned two.
It’s hard enough to keep everyone’s original last name straight!
My first week in site I went to a naming ceremony. This is the Muslim baptism, which takes place
a week after the baby’s birth. Somehow
my toxoma was designated to name the baby.
I’m not exactly sure if I’m understanding all of this correctly, but I
think that the men in the baby’s family picked the name, it was just her job to
present the name to the baby himself and then announce it to the women present
at the ceremony. They shaved the baby’s
head, washed him (soap is a common gift at a baptism), and Sadio made a
trilling noise into each of his ears, after which she whispered his name to
him. She then held him high and
announced his name to the group.
Needless to say,
names mean a lot, and I have a feeling that I’ve just scratched the surface.
Wow, Annē! My head is spinning just trying to absorb what you just wrote! You are such a natural and I am so impressed by your grasp of the language and the culture already! It seems you are just where you need to be right now. Keep up the good work! Take good care of yourself. We are thinking about and praying for you and Pat daily!
ReplyDeleteLove,
Nancy
It all sounds so complicated! I'm impressed with your abilities too! :)
ReplyDelete